Coconut Grove to Manatee Pocket, Florida

Days 299-303; April 18–April 23

Total Miles Traveled: 2733

After a roller-coaster month in Coconut Grove, Dinner Key Marina, we left on Monday, March 18^th from Biscayne Bay headed into the inter-coastal waterway (ICWW) in downtown Miami. We shared a wonderful Sunday morning breakfast and wander through Coconut Grove one last time with Bob & Carol, Deb and Drew before saying farewell until next time. “Time Enough” would head up the outside (Atlantic) after her new engine was installed and ultimately meet us in Indiantown. Shawnee would head up the outside on a 72 hour sail in the Gulf Stream to North Carolina (more about that later). Jo Ann decided that she wanted to travel the inside or ICWW to see the sights of Miami, Fort Lauderdale and West Palm Beach.

Bob, Drew and Jim wandering Coconut Grove

Deb, Jo Ann and Carol  (We felt pretty much like middle schoolers at the Mall)

The Miami skyline had been our front yard view all month and we made several visits into downtown Miami but ushering the Namaste through the confusing channels and heavy traffic was quite another story – even on a beautiful Monday morning.

Leaving Coconut Grove out the narrow and shallow channel

Coming up to the Miami Skyline – where do we get into  the ICWW again?

This is where the endless bridges begin.  Car traffic must travel between the barrier islands along the coast from the incredible beaches back and forth to the mainland.   Hence, we orchestrated 42 bridges on the four-day trip. Namaste needs 47’ of clearance to pass and the bridge range was 65’ down to 9’. A few bridges we could chug right under but for the rest we needed a lift, often waiting up to 45 minutes drifting around with several boats, often mega-yachts, waiting in both directions. Some tenders opened on the hour and half hour; some opened on the quarter and three quarter hour; some opened on the hour; and some upon request so as we approached each bridge we were required to call the tender on the VHF radio, identify our boat and request the timing of their next opening. We would then line up to march on through. On occasion it was clear that some captains had not gone to kindergarten as taking turns was not necessarily their strong suit. However, for the most part our fellow captains and the bridge tenders were helpful and friendly. We did note that at the end of a day everyone got a little testy.  One day we traveled with the boat, “Entitled” and when they announced their name the female bridge tender replied, “Entitled. Really? Entitled?” No response from the captain but an imaginary chuckle rippled through the dozens of boats that were listening in on the transmission.

 Ocean Avenue Bridge, one of the prettiest little bridges along the way

The Namaste is clear and thank you for the opening

The Inter-Coastal Waterway was everything we anticipated and more.   Clearly this is where the 1/10^th of 1% chooses to spend their time as the mansions majestically go on and on and on. Loopers ahead had posted pictures to FB but pictures do not tell the story of the wealth, beauty and decadence of this segment. On the other hand, given the absolutely gorgeous weather there were almost no people about except the occasional gardener or construction worker building yet another immense structure. A pleasant diversion would be the occasional play-scape or busy park.

Above and below are two of the more modest lifestyles available on the waterway

Second only to the homes were the boats, no yachts, no mega-yachts! We are trying to keep our boat envy under control. The pictures below do tell it all but again, our sense is that these mansions-on-water are usually moved about by hired captain and crew. The people must be off somewhere making more money? Probably the biggest and our favorite was “Limitless” a navy-blue hulled beauty who truly fulfilled her name. Most often the impact was multiplied by a multi-million dollar mansion with the multi-million dollar yacht docked out front.

 

“Limitless”

. . .and some are even shrink wrapped

On the flip side let me tell you about the “Annie Murray” – a salty, wooden, 25 foot, last of her generation, cutter captained by a beautiful young woman from Nova Scotia. We traveled under a couple of bridges together so learned that she had been living in the Keys for five years and was headed to Maine with no crew and thus could not sail the outside. Her engine was overheating “a bit” so her speed was slow but she navigated the helm standing up and using her toes to guide the wheel.

“The Annie Murray”  If you look closely you can see her standing in the aqua shirt at the stern.

We hadn’t seen barges since leaving the river system in early December but the ICWW has its fair share, mostly construction barges for new bridges and buildings. So along with the pleasure craft there is a mix of barges, tows, dredges, freighters, dive boats, water taxis and cruise ships.

Freighter being loaded

Barges and cranes everywhere

Charter Boats – Note Hard Rock Cafe in the background

Water Taxi – Note houses in the background

One of many Cruise Ships

This was a very slow trip of 115 miles over four days but it was a great trip and I am so glad we did it. If there is a next time we will likely join the others on the “outside.” We anchored each night enjoying peace and a full moon: Lake Sylvia in Fort Lauderdale, a beautiful basin lined by aforementioned homes and yachts; Southern Boulevard Anchorage, a wide spot on the waterway; and Southern Hobe Sound Anchorage where we put down the hook with “Pearl,” a looping, tugboat we last saw in Green Turtle Bay, KY.   On the fourth day we were back into the rural mangroves with only two bridges arriving at Manatee Pocket, a small lake off the inter-costal. Here we where we are staying at the Mariner Cay Marina. It is quiet and complete with pool (89 degrees today) awaiting “Time Enough’s” arrival this afternoon.

Lake Sylvia Anchorage

Sunset at the Southern Boulevard Bridge near West Palm Beach

Full Moon Rise in Manatee Pocket

Quote of the Day: “Weather reports show 10 knot winds and we have 20 knots with green water coming over the bow – staying seated or lying down the whole time!” -Text from Deb and Drew aboard “Shawnee” in the Gulf Stream. (We are happy to report that our open ocean sailors have safely arrived at their destination a little weary but accomplished and happy!)

Boat Name of the Day: “Mustang Sally” on a boat we never saw but heard from all day  on the VHF radio.

Bad Boat Name of the Day: “Sexy” on an all silver go fast boat with as much red trim as could be added to a boat.

Happy Birthday to: Norma Neumann and Emily Spindler (belated)

Days 276-298; March 27-April 17

Total Miles Traveled: 2617

On March 27^th we flew from Fort Lauderdale FL to Montego Bay Jamaica, early on a peaceful, Easter Sunday morning headed to meet Pat, Heather, Lexi, Ashleigh and Nate. We had arranged ahead for an Uber ride from the Miami City Hall so nothing could go wrong. Wrong! We came upon five different but simultaneous accidents all within a two-mile stretch of a six-lane section of I95. Next we walked into the Spirit Airline terminal greeted by a massive wall of people and the line flowing outside and down the building as far as we could see – everyone on a spring-break getaway. We looked at one another with the same thought – we will never get through this in time as we had no printed boarding passes nor seat assignments and needed to check a bag. We buddied up with a young couple from North Carolina and took on our self-assigned duties with the end result that we all got to the gate and were aboard when the plane departed two hours late. The good news was that Spirit really did manage the crowd and as we walked into customs in Jamaica, Nate came bounding up as our own personal greeter for what promised to be a fabulous week.

Pat and Heather had warned us that this would truly be a vacation – going nowhere and doing nothing while lounging in their beautiful resort on the north shore of Jamaica.  Of course, our definitions of doing nothing are different but indeed we mostly sat at the beach or pool, talked, ate, talked, ate, slept, and then started all over again. A few highlights included playing monster trucks in the sand with Nate; excellent snorkeling with Ashleigh – we saw two Angel Fish; getting a foot henna designed and applied by Lexi; kayak rides; Lex and Ash parasailing higher than any we had ever seen before.

Hours and hours of monster trucks in the sand.

Hours and hours of Grandma and Ashleigh snorkeling!

Lexi doing her Spring Break thing!

Grandpa and Nate looking for waves

I’m not tired well maybe just a quick little nap before dinner.

Dinner finery

. . .more dinner finery

. . . and more dinner finery!  The meals were all delicious.  Especially

The beginning of an elaborate henna design

The true highlight for me was climbing the Dunn River Falls in Ochos Rios. You have probably seen a picture or climbed them yourself if you have ever been to Jamaica. I had imagined viewing some pretty falls, perhaps standing in a refreshing pool at the bottom. Reality was that Heather had arranged for an amazing woman who guided our climb (barefoot with Nate on her shoulders) from the bottom to the top, about a 45 minute rock climb into rushing fresh cool water surrounded by lush tropical greenery. Cell phone cameras were safely stored away so no real pictures but my visual snapshots will last forever! Not only an accomplishment for me but something on my bucket list since 1987.

We did it!

At night Jim and I retreated to our bedroom at the Celebrity Villa just up the hill from the resort where we were well cared for by Jason and his grandmother Ruby. I highly recommend this spot if you truly want a peaceful couple get-away mixed with local flavor!

We returned to Coconut Grove and picked up Sammy at the Dog House Hotel to complete our month at the Dinner Key Marina. Captain Jim did more maintenance to the Namaste (kill switch adjusted, engine painted, new fan in the galley and another bottom cleaning for both the boat and the dinghy – stuff really grows here), got our taxes out, and managed some Miami area sight seeing.

Doing taxes under Sammy’s close supervision

We spent a long day at Viscaya, a beautiful home and gardens on Biscayne Bay built in the early 20^th century. Architecture, life and culture of the time in Miami were the guide’s expertise. As we were riding the free trolley that day we saw peacocks meandering in the front lawns of some of the beautiful homes along the Bay. I asked the driver, “what’s with the Peacocks?” He replied, “don’t know but I’m not supposed to hit ‘em!”

Vascaya  where we spent hours in the house and gardens

Vascaya cafe’s wine vending machine.  A first for us –  $8/glass!

Another day we went to South Beach (SOBE) using public transportation – bus, metro-rail, and bus again. It was a trip down memory lane visiting places we enjoyed in our visits to see Pat when he lived there as a young professional in 1995-6. Shopping, lunch at the Delano, walking the beach, and people watching filled the day.

Pat’s last bachelor pad!

Yet another time we went with four friends (Bob and Carol on “Time Enough” and Deb and Drew on “Shawnee”) to Wynwood, a neighborhood of mid-town Miami. This area is an old warehouse district turned high-end arts, design, boutique and restaurant phenomenon. Most memorable were the colorful murals painted on the exterior walls of the buildings and the Ferrari/Porsche and Guitar museum. It was a hot day so we covered only a small percentage of what was available but a must see along with lunch at the Wynwood Diner if ever you are in Miami!

Wynwood Diner and a taste of the art.

Bob and Carol with Deb and Drew on the Metrorail to Wynwood

1973 matched parts Porche Carrera and one of many at the car/guitar museum

(This one is for you, Pat!)

The last two weekends the local yacht clubs have hosted the Star Sailboat World Cup races out in the Bay. We have been intrigued watching them come and go, often inches apart – representing many countries, some previous World Cup or Olympic champions. The Star class is a classic 21 foot sailboat without a motor that our late friend Dick Grasley owned way back in the 60’s. Beautiful and fun!!

Heading out for the Star World Cup Races

Note from Sammy: My stay at the Dog House was OK, especially when our friends Carol and Bob, a veterinarian, (minus their kitty, Merrigold) visited. However, I am certain I would have liked Jamaica better and mostly missed sleeping on a real bed and seeing Heather and the family. I have made some good friends, Hobie and Matsu. Sometimes we run together and chase Frisbees but it is often too hot to run very long or far. I think I am in for a bath tomorrow as Jo Ann keeps calling me a rag-a-muffin. Oh yes, did I tell you that I have permanently secured my sleeping spot in the middle of the v-berth? Sounds like we may be returning to Michigan soon and while I’m not looking forward to the long car trip, I will be happy to walk around Dunham Lake with Judy and see my old friends, Gio, Mello, and Peek-a-Boo.

Thanks for the visit Bob

Thanks for the dance Hobie

Gotta love these parties!

Quote of the Day: Grandpa was talking about Boat Angels using the term Boat Fairies instead (see previous post).

Nate: “I went on a ferry boat once,”

Grandpa (smiling gently): “Oh Nate, you are so concrete.”

Nate: No Grandpa, I am NOT concrete!

We all tried to suppress our laughter as he would never have gotten it!

Boat Name of the Day: “Out of Africa” on the boat docked next to us whose delightful captain and wife immigrated from South Africa several years ago

Bad Boat Name of the Day: “Go Away”

Happy belated birthday to: Lisa Tulin-Silver, Jen DeKorte

 

 

 

One of the difficult parts of this amazing adventure has been the physical distance from family and friends during important life events. We have missed weddings, the birth of our 7^th grandchild – Cedar, graduations and the illness and loss of several friends and family. While phone, texting, email, Skype, and Face Book all serve an immensely vital purpose and I wouldn’t be here without them, it is simply not the same as being there. On April 6^th my brother Bill succumbed to a long and well fought battle. I cannot continue this blog without including an eternal remembrance of his life and contributions to the world. Bill, RIP –  We love you!   Jim & Jo, Pat, Heather, Mike, Veta, Curt, Brooke, Lexi, Ashleigh, Liam, Klava, Nate, Leonie and Cedar!

William Howard Poppenger, Jr.

September 2, 1942 – April 6, 2016

Bill lived much of his life in and was one of Livonia, Michigan’s most loyal fans. He served a 400+ customer Free Press paper route (early morning delivery) for many years and more than once received a holiday tip from every grateful customer on the route. A 1962 graduate of Bentley High School, he reconnected with his wife of 44 years, Missy Sullivan, while working together on the planning committee for their ten-year class reunion.   They were married in Livonia and lived in Rosedale Gardens, the exceptional neighborhood in which they both grew up. Missy brought four-year old Chris to their relationship followed by the birth of two beautiful sons, Carson and Adam.

In addition to a long and successful career as a City Planner for Livonia, Bill was a leader in the Jaycees and instrumental in bringing the Art Train for a visit to Livonia.  He and Missy later moved to Brighton where he enjoyed a second career working in the tool department of Home Depot and where you may have met him, intentionally or not!  Ultimately, upon retirement, Bill, Missy and Chris moved to Salt Lake City, Utah enjoying the caring support of Carson, his wife Amy and their three beautiful granddaughters, Belle, Emma, and Katelyn.

Bill and his family were lovers of all dogs and gave homes to many over the years – Fella, Shaggy, Gussie, Sniffer, River, Chief, Ruth, Morgan, to name a few but Kimber was his faithful companion to the very end. He also spent countless hours on creating a family tree before the Internet existed and became known in the family as the Doll House Maker. He all but completed a Victorian masterpiece for his grand-niece which he named Princess Leonie’s Pink Mansion.

A favorite image is of Bill as a 5 or 6 year old little blonde boy, dressed in his black and white cowboy gear riding the ottoman and watching Hop-Along-Cassidy on the newly acquired family TV.

Bill had a quick smile and an easy laugh but mostly he had a passion for hard work and tenaciously doing the very best job he could. His gentle, kind and generous manner along with his love of family served each of us well. Bill, rest in peace knowing that you have made this world a better place!