February 18 – 23, 2017

Miles traveled: 110

Total miles traveled:  3076 (note: we passed the 3,000 mile mark today!)

It is time to leave the Florida mainland and head south again into the Florida Keys.  We made this 110 mile trip in the open Gulf last year alongside Sea to See so setting out on our own was a new adventure.  We met and had cocktails with another couple who were planning to make the same crossing but they delayed by a day and our weather analysis of several sources told us that the Saturday (18^th) to Sunday (19^th) weather window would be best for us and it was.  Our route was set for Marco Island to Little Shark River (66 miles) on Saturday and Little Shark River to Marathon (44 miles) on Sunday.  Remember we cruise at a maximum of 7 mph.   We up-anchored at first light, snaked back out the narrow marker to open water, waving to a few early risers enjoying their decks and balconies.  Jim engaged in bird calls with someone we could not see – pretty sure it was not a bird.

Leaving Smokehouse Bay, Marco Island

It was calm at first but the breeze picked up and stayed with us most of the day.  Unfortunately, it was on our nose (coming directly from our destination) so sailing was not an option and we motored the entire day.  There was a storm predicted for further north and Coast Guard warning broadcasts on VHF 16 made us slightly uncomfortable but radar assured us that we would be well south of any bad weather.  At the end of the day we never even saw a storm cloud.

Even though we left without a buddy boat, as we came out into the open Gulf we saw two sailboats on our exact heading.  We followed them, eventually catching up and passing them by mid-afternoon.  We tried hailing on VHF 16, the channel which everyone usually monitors, but got no response which seemed strange.  Not friendly we surmised.

We reached Little Shark River at 5:10 p.m., exactly 10 hours after departure from Marco. This had been a long but lovely day. Little Shark River is the recommended anchorage in the heart of the Everglades just before jumping off to the Keys.  To say this place is remote is understating the reality.  There had been no cell signal of any kind since two hours out of Marco Island meaning we had no communication with the world except for VHF radio – no phone, email, text, weather, FB, internet, NYT. . . a really strange sensation in today’s world. Being in the heart of the Everglades, this anchorage is well known for its no-see-um population so as soon as the anchor was set we put up screens and stayed below where I made Snow-on-the-Mountain, a simple but favorite family dish (recipe available) and went to bed early. Hence, no pictures to add.  On the other hand there is also no light pollution and the place is teaming with wild creatures so the night lights and sounds are staggering.  We shared the large anchorage with 8 boats of every size and shape imaginable but the two sailboats following us never arrived which again make us curious.

We rose before dawn preparing to set out on the next leg to Vaca Key, usually called Marathon.  By now it was dead still and hot with some hazy fog and a cloud of no-see-ums surrounding the boat.  I digress to last year remembering when I had so many bites and an allergic reaction that landed me in the ER for a prednisone injection.  Thus, I sprayed myself with Deep Woods Off containing 25% Deet and covered every inch of my body with light clothing hoping for prevention but no such luck!  Because it was dead calm, the cloud followed us across the Florida bay so along with swatting bugs and dodging crab pots we were always busy. Namaste had no crab pot entanglements but I arrived with a couple dozen bites. I have been using topical and taking oral Benadryl and for some reason my reaction this year seems to be less – Jim hardly experienced any reaction to the bites.  Not fair!

You might wonder what happened to the two sailboats from yesterday?  Well, as we set our course for Marathon we looked back to see both up-anchoring from a nearby bay and following us.  It turns out they had unsuccessfully attempted to stay out of the no-see-um anchorage. Eventually, they hailed us on channel 16 and we chatted the rest of the way across promising to meet some day which turned out to be two days later (Tuesday 22^nd) at a gathering of captains planning to go to the Bahamas in the coming weeks.  It was like greeting long lost friends, we shared cocktails and indeed have much in common.

Our new best friends

Speaking of the Bahamas, we went to the meeting of 40 or so people discussing their plans for cruising either the Abacos (northern) or the Exumas (southern) islands.  What we very quickly realized is that we are not even remotely prepared to make this journey.  From customs paperwork to navigation planning and from provisioning to finances we have a great deal of detailed homework to do next summer to get ourselves and the Namaste ready.  As a result we will spend March in the Keys doing things we didn’t do last year and then beginning our meandering up the east coast of Florida back to Indiantown and our Tiguan waiting to bring us home.  We are both slightly disappointed but feel this is the prudent decision.  Captain Jim has begun the spreadsheet. . .

Since our arrival on Marathon, we have been at the Faro Blanco Marina/resort where we spent a couple of weeks last year.  It is a lovely place with two pools, a great restaurant, laundry facilities and access to everything along Highway #1 in Marathon.  So far we have been to Publix and West Marine – I can hardly contain my excitement!  Immediately after our arrival we attended a birthday party for the youngest Looper who we have been following on the AGLCA Forum.  Mia turned six  and the whole marina celebrated complete with cake, balloons, a human sized turtle and pirates.  She is traveling on a 32′ trawler with her parents and 3 sisters.  Add to the story that Mia has significant health problems that require oxygen and a wheelchair.  The family is beyond an inspiration.

Mia, in purple with the crown

Mia’s family leaving for Key West (Mia is in the fly bridge patiently watching)

We are currently experiencing a tropical storm with high winds (30+ mph) and lots of rain so I am personally relieved not to be at anchor.  As I look out over the marina and across the gulf the water is bright turquoise and the sky dark gray, almost black.  Captain Jim is out rechecking and securing the lines.

 Sunset over the bow

Someone recently asked me about our daily routine.  I have to say our activities fall into two categories:  travel days and lay days.  On travel days, depending on where and how far we are going, we are intensely focused on what needs to happen to get to our destination such as plotting a course, watching the weather, following our check lists, securing everything including Sammy, planning simple meals, and sharing “watch” responsibilities.  On lay days we drink coffee and chat for a couple of hours before planning our day.  Often we go sight-seeing or enjoy a restful day by the pool.  Other days we tackle shopping, laundry, long walks with Sammy, never-ending repairs, varnishing, cleaning, or blogging such as today.  Early to bed and early to rise we often take short naps, play cards, read, and share news websites and stories.  We say it is a simple but not always an easy life.

Everyday life!

A word about Sammy.  We have prided ourselves that during her six boating years she has never tried to jump off the Namaste onto a dock. We always gently lift and carry her to safe ground. However, we are currently tied to a marina wall busy with people and dog traffic that is the same height as our deck.  Yesterday, overcome by social urges,  she jumped the 6” onto the dock running after anyone who would pay attention.  We were busy and didn’t even notice she was gone until the dock hands corralled and brought her back.  Sadly for safety sake, her life will change drastically.  Instead of having freedom to run the deck, she will either need to be secured on deck or enclosed below.  Our efforts to reason with her have not produced behavioral change.  Also, at the risk of TMI: over the two day crossing Sammy did not go ashore – hear alligators, eagles and snakes.  When she got restless I attached her leash and said let’s go outside for a walk.  We marched to the bow where I told her to “go potty”.  She promptly complied, returned to the cockpit and with a sigh of relief settled back down for a nap – a big hurdle mastered.   She looks like a ragamuffin but has a grooming appointment next Tuesday which cannot come soon enough for the sake of anyone!

  Hey y’all

Good boat name of the day:  Leap of Faith

Quote of the day:  The best thing about dogs is that you can act like something really great just happened and they’ll instantly start celebrating with you.  They have no idea what context is. . .they’re just always ready to party no matter what!  _Rebel Circus

Happy Birthday to:  Colleen, Shawn, and a very special birthday wish to my wonderful co-grandma, Ollie!  Wish we were there to celebrate with you!

Welcome to the world:  Elliott Ryan Poteau with congratulations to Katie, Ryan and Grandma and Grandpa Littlepage!

February 12 – 17, 2017

Miles traveled: 5 (one side of Marco to another)

Total miles traveled:  2966

Well, it has been a week of fun and lovely surprises.  We stayed on Marco more than a few days, in fact a week, at the wonderful Marco Island Yacht Club and Marina.  This is one of the most expensive stops on the loop but the “weekly rate” meant that by staying seven nights the last two were free so instead of $110 it was $70/night.  Staying also allowed us to leave Namaste in a safe place, rent a car and go to Miami.

Marco Island Yacht Club and Marina

On Monday (13^th) we drove two hours along Alligator Alley across the Everglades into Miami as our Valentine to one another.  It was a nostalgic trip for me in that I made this trip in 1962 with my paternal grandparents – Howard and Dorothy – who welcomed me back to the U.S. from my AFS exchange student experience to Brazil. They drove me from Miami to their home in Venice, FL for a brief visit.   There wasn’t much along the way then and not any more now except miles and miles of mangrove swamp teaming with all crawling, swimming, flying, slithering things.

Our purpose was to meet Curt, Brooke, Leonie and Cedar who were vacationing in South Miami.  It turned out to be the perfect day of loving the grandchildren, swimming in the pool, walking the beautiful Miami waterfront, enjoying a delicious BBQ thanks to Blake’s hospitality and catching up with Shannon and Elena.  Leonie at four loves life, is curious about and up for anything, mostly all at once.  Cedar at one bestows sweet and random smiles and kisses while proving his newly acquired physical prowess.  Stroller naps allowed precious adult time with Curt and Brooke too.  Seeing them gave us a real boost as being away is the hardest part!

Nothing better than time with our beautiful grandchildren!

Back at the marina we took long walks trying to get our 10,000 steps in each day, sat by the pool most afternoons, met great people, toured another beautiful Krogan and were mesmerized by a dolphin who swam alongside our dinghy locking eyes with Sammy about 12” away.

Sunrise over the Intercostal Waterway

Sunrise over the Marco Island Marina

Boat at dusk passing under the S. S. Jolley Bridge to Marco Island

Thursday (16^th), when our week was up and with a good dose of local knowledge, we cast off for an anchorage on the other side of the Island.  In strong winds, high tide and fast current we traversed a tricky channel to enter a small but protected lake where we put down the hook just off the “Esplanade”, a complex of condos, shops, restaurants, and a marina with a dinghy dock. I got a pedicure while Jim figured out and fixed a break in the fuel line from the gas tank to our 6hp Mercury dinghy engine.  We celebrated with dinner at Davide’s Italian Restaurant complete with table-side serenades by the resident virtuoso – a late but romantic Valentines dinner together.

An Osprey on every navigation post.  Many with nests and newborns. Watch the channel, not the birds!!

Namaste anchored in the middle of Smokehouse Bay

Sunset over Smokehouse Bay

The Esplanade at night from the water

Our next step will be traveling from Marco Island, off the mainland of Florida to Marathon on Vaca Key.  One hundred and ten miles – stay tuned!

Good boat name of the day:  Free Wind

Bad boat name of the day:  Who Cares

Quote of the day:  “Trying to understand the behavior of some people is like trying to smell the color 9” – Sarcasm Society

February 5 – 11, 2017

Miles traveled: 14

Total miles traveled:  2961

I haven’t commented on our weather recently so I will simply say that it is perfect.  Every day is in the high seventies/low eighties and we have had only one day and one night of rain since January 10^th.  Not good for the environment but nice for tourism.  We use a couple of fans during the heat of the day plus at night and we are all good. This time last year it wasn’t nearly as nice in the Keys.CBS Days (clear blue skies)

Report on our time in Naples.  We stayed on the mooring ball four nights (the maximum allowed), went into the dock for two nights getting everything charged up, and back out on the ball for a night.  It was a wonderful stay for many reasons but mostly because everything was convenient, the people were great, and we had friends who treated us to some of the local pleasures of Naples.View from the mooring ball

On Saturday (4^th) we set out for a long exploratory walk.  We literally ran into the Naples Farmers’ Market and believe me, not like any ordinary farmers’ market.  Several blocks long it was colorful, high energy, and high fashion with everything for sale from beets to bikinis.  The baked goods gave way to several unique vendors and displays.  From there we headed away from the crowds and to the beach.  Naples is unique in that every street that runs perpendicular to the Gulf has public access with parks and resident parking.  We walked a long way with our feet in the water enjoying the wildlife, both human and animal.  It was quite a display!  About ten blocks up we left the beach and headed to the grocery market – Wynn’s for some provisioning.  By this point it was hot and a long, long walk back to the Namaste carrying provisions so we Ubered back for $5, well spent.

Naples Farmer’s Market

Another day we went back to the beach by way of the Bad Ass Coffee Shop (the name has something to do with donkeys that carry the coffee) and required window shopping.  The beach was even more wonderful as it was earlier and cooler.  We next braved the unknown and walked back through neighborhood after neighborhood of multi-million dollar homes.  The auto-parade is yet another story.There are no words

Additional highlights included meals at Nemo’s and the Ciboa Grille – both excellent – and a walk through the lovely Naples botanical Gardens.  Something we learned:  there are 65 thrift (resale) shops in Naples.  Why you wonder would this community need thrift shops?  The answer lies in the age and stage of its residents.  It is a relatively new community beginning development in the early ‘60’s with lots and lots of older folks buying homes and condos over the last fifty years.  When the inevitable happens, there are lots and lots of gigantic homes and posh condos full of stuff to be disposed.  Families simply call one of the 65 shops who show up and evaluate the goods.  No drop off here, they don’t take anything that is even slightly worn!  The store layouts (one was previously a car dealership) and bargains are astounding.

In the Asian Garden – One of several gardens representing this latitude around the world.

The Botanical Gardens Origami display – paper through to metal sculptures

Orchids everywhere

I may have reported on laundry experiences before but recently gave the prize to a couple who washed two very large loads, threw them both into the same dryer and allowed it to run for well over an hour – never coming back to check on drying progress.  When the dryer shut off I removed their clothes which is a breach of the marina laundromat ethical code but enough was enough.  Since there were only two washers and one dryer we invested over two and a half hours in accomplishing one reasonable sized load of laundry.  No multi-tasking here.  The good news was being outside with an incredible view.

What have we been up to besides meandering down the SW coast of Florida?  Jim has been working hard on varnishing the exterior teak while I perfect the wet-varnish-dance.  Step here, don’t touch there!  Currently he is sanding the binnacle – the post that holds up the compass just ahead of the wheel.  Sammy finds a shady spot in the cockpit and settles down for what she knows will be a long nap!  Hear boring, zzzzz!

Keeping the Namaste beautiful

Today I learned that the manatee is no longer on the endangered list.  Although not sure why, I suspect this is a good thing.  Pelicans (not endangered) greeted us at the breakwater coming into the Naples channel and then gathered for dinner below where the charter boat fishermen were cleaning their catch.  We loved watching the Sandpipers gather on a windy day, in rows like soldiers, facing into the wind. We also identified a Royal Tern.

Naples Greeters!

Where is dinner?  This scene was just off the dinghy dock where we parked to go ashore. Sammy was somewhere between ecstatic and terrified.

The dinner scramble

Sandpipers all in a row

Beautiful Royal Tern

One of my personal favorite, random, beach pictures.

On Thursday (9^th) we sadly pulled up anchor – really released lines to a ball – and headed back out into the Gulf for Marco Island.  It was a short but lovely 14 mile sail.  Upon arrival, we had the choice of either anchoring out in a bay (remember free) or heading to one of several marinas.  Since we knew the weather report was calling for high winds the next day and a few other variables, we opted for the most expensive, Marco Island Yacht Club and Marina complete with pool and beautiful, quiet setting.  What we didn’t know was that due to the spectacular full moon, the tides would be at their lowest of low.  The first morning here we woke up to Sammy’s insistent whining because our keel was resting into a couple feet of soft muddy bottom and the boat was pitched forward.  Our watch dog warned us that something was definitely wrong!  We were tied to a floating dock which kept us upright and were delighted with our decision not to anchor out that particular night.  Sammy has two wonderful playmates, Izzy and Sprite.  Izzy is a black lab who carries two toys in her mouth at all times and Sprite who keeps Sammy in line as it is her dock.

We will stay a few more days in Marco before we head into the Everglades and on down to the Keys.

Good boat name of the day:  Magic Happened (Makes you wonder?)

Bad boat name of the day: Nervous Wreck

Quote of the day:  At times I’m grateful that thoughts don’t appear in bubbles over our head-Kushandwizdom

Happy Birthday to:  Jim, Bernie and Happy Valentine’s Day to all!

Our very best thoughts to:  Michele, Roger

January 30 – February 4, 2017

Miles traveled: 59

Total miles traveled:  2947

On our last night in Fort Myers we had one of those rare but wonderful, I feel like have known you all of my life experiences.  We had been watching a dock-mate carefully sand, tape, stain and then varnish the bright work on his boat.  He was meticulous and painstaking, just like someone else I know.  We never got around to saying hello until another boater mentioned that John, Luann, and the boat Sandpiper were also from Michigan.  I then made it a point to go over, admire his work and mention Michigan.  The litany of what we have in common is endless including they’re home on Lake Michigan just down the beach from Camp Lookout, our shared time at MSU, as well as Jim and John’s engineering and sailing histories.  We enjoyed an evening together with the promise to meet up again in the Bahamas and/or eventually Frankfort!

And we thought we were the only Namaste?

After a rainy Sunday, we left Fort Myers on Monday, January 30^th heading to Fort Myers Beach which is not as close as it sounds and which required navigating the multiple and confusing channel markings at the convergence of the Caloosahatchee River and the Gulf.  We mostly stayed out of trouble.  Since we are attempting to see and do different things this time around southern FL, we called ahead to several resort/marinas along the way but found that they charged more than double our nightly dockage budget which is already way too high.

The pretty part of the channel

The hair-raising part of the channel

Arrived at Salty Sam’s

While at Salty Sam’s we met Loopers Nick, Barb, and Ziggy (Ziggy Zaggy Scallawaggy) who looks like Sammy with long legs.  I mention them because when they pulled up to the dock next to us, I thought she looked familiar.  Through conversation we realized that she had been sitting at our table at the Looper Palooza Conference.  After the first session break her notebook and water remained at the table but she never returned.  By her admission, it was a beautiful day and she has no attention span! Exactly, who needs an indoor boating conference!  They are having boat repairs done but hopefully we will cross paths again soon.

While here Captain Jim got the dinghy outboard motor running again.  Note to selves:  don’t let it sit in the hot FL sun for eight months with gas in the carburetor = syrup.  Another day we walked across the waterway bridge and had a beautiful beach and shopping day.  I found the best  bathing suit store ever, did I just say that?  The pictures (of the beach, not the bathing suits) tell the story!View walking across the bridge in the early morning

Perfect Beach!

Pausing for a moment of reflection, or is it planning?

This White Egret and I share similar coiffure challenges

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